Up in the hills of Muyinga Province, the roads turn to mist and, after heavy rain, to mud. Hafi sits a long day from Bujumbura, about six hours by car, far from the nearest wet mill. For years that distance left the farmers one option, so they got very good at the natural process — drying whole cherry on raised beds and dialing in 24- and 48-hour anaerobic ferments that give the cup its layered, jammy depth. JNP Coffee works with the smallholders around the station, which is named for what they spent years hoping for. Hafi means “near” in Kirundi, for the washing station they wanted close at hand.

Every Rotation coffee is a numbered edition. Hafi is No.__.

The colour isn’t a description of the coffee. It belongs to the slot, not the bean — when Hafi retires, the rose goes back in the pool and the next coffee takes it.

The centre of the card is deliberately empty. It’s a canvas, and it’s waiting for an artist.

A lot of this is elevation. At 1,715 metres the cherries ripen slowly, and that slow ripening is where the brightness and clarity come from. The anaerobic natural process adds the rest — the jammy sweetness and the syrupy depth. Bourbon keeps it balanced underneath. A light roast lets all of it reach the cup.

• ·Pour over and drip
• ·Anyone who takes their coffee black
• ·Drinkers who lean toward bright, fruit-forward cups

• ·Pour slowly to keep the cup clean
• ·Drink it fresh

• ·Want more acidity? Drop the water temperature slightly.
• ·After more sweetness? Let it brew a touch longer.
• ·Drink it black to get the full range.